Tuesday, 08 February 2011 05:35

10 Questions With Shane Dorian

Shane Dorian is the best big wave surfer in the world. Ya I said it! and so have all of the best surfers in the big wave game . Shane is the Clint Eastwood of the Big Wave Arena. He shows up on the days of days, aims, hits his targets like a sniper, and then disappears like he was never there. . He is a Big Wave ninja that strikes hard a few times a year, goes back into hiding, silently waiting for his next power move. Shane speaks softly and carries a big stick. In my humble opinion, he is doing what all surfers wish they could do on so many levels. To be that good and that humble might just be Shane’s greatest talent. Being so reclusive makes him a real hard guy to read. From the outside he looks razor sharp calm in moments of chaos. But what I want to know is what is racing through his mind as he is fading the bottom of a massive Maverick wave, just before he pulls into the tube. I want to know what makes him tick and why he does what he does. Let’s dive inside Shane's dome and get an inside view of the life of one of surfings greatest athletes.

-Ken "Skindog" Collins


1. Why do you surf big waves? What do you get out of it? Big Fun, Big Rush, Big?

I surf big waves because I love to see if I can get in the zone and have what it takes to push myself physically and mentally. It's unlike anything else I have ever done.

 

2. How long do you plan on chasing after monsters?

I will surf big waves as long as it's fun. Once I dont want the biggest wave on the biggest day I will know my time is done. I look forward to not wanting it.

 

3. What do you to mentally prepare for the big days? Walk us through the process from the day you see a massive swell forming, to getting equipment and flights together. All the way up to walking up the beach and seeing the surf. Feel free to use Mavericks as an example.

I like to visualize my goal for that particular swell. Say I am going to Mavericks - the whole time I am preparing my gear, packing, etc. I am visualizing what the waves will look like and imagine being in the right spot to paddle into a huge one. That way when I am in the moment I feel like I have already gone through it mentally.

 

4. Everyone seems to see you and Kelly Slater as rivals in the big wave arena, and want to watch you guys compete in big surf. You have surfed more big waves in the last decade than Kelly. Do you think that you have an advantage over him going into the Big Wave Events (The Eddie and The Jay)?

I am hoping Kelly gets re-inspired to surf big waves more often now that he hopefully will have more time (assuming he does not do the World Tour). He is so good in big waves that I know it would push all of us to levels we havent been to yet if he is charging Mavericks and other huge waves again.

 

5. Are you 100% committed to the whole Big Wave World Tour?

No. I am committed to my family first, and that does not allow enough time to do everything I would like to do. I will do the Eddie and the Jay for sure, besides that I am working on a film project for the next 2 years that I am focusing on and am excited about.

 

6. I heard you have been working with the Billabong design team on underwater quick release floatation devices in your wetsuits. Care to share, or is that top secret?

After my scary Mavericks wipeout experience last year I decided to try and design something that would help make us all safer in huge surf. It took about 6 months of working with the wetsuit designer at Billabong, but I am now testing and using the first prototypes and it works insane. It is nearly totally finished and when it is I will make sure everyone is aware of it because I truly think it will save lives in the very near future.

 

7. Big wave surfing is hitting a whole new level of media hype to the general public. Where would you like to see big wave surfing go?

I think it's great that big wave surfing has a mass appeal. People can relate to the personal challenge it is and the fear we must overcome. For the younger guys that are into big waves it is an awesome opportunity to chase their dreams and surf big waves for a living.

 

8. What does your big wave quiver look like, what do you ride the most and what are you working on as far as new equipment?

I usually ride a 9'8 John Carper Thruster at places like Mavericks and Waimea. I just got a 10'6 quad to try in outer-reefs that seems to work really well when a huge board is an advantage.

 

9. With big waves being the new black, have you seen spots becoming over crowded and bad etiquette being exercised?

There is no question that big wave surfing is getting very popular. I just hope people are doing it because they truly enjoy it. Surfing big waves requires some ego-based decisions to be made and I think we should try to keep that in check.

 

10. When you heard that Jacob sucked water at Mavericks and nearly died, did that mess with your head at all, or do you feel that will happen when the novices over-step their limits?

The first thing that I thought was that I wish he had been using the device I am working on. Mavericks, more than any other wave I have surfed, seems to want to drown people. Sometimes no matter how fit you are and how prepared you might be, it is still not enough.


Last modified on Tuesday, 08 February 2011 05:50